Three Secrets To Crispy Pickles, And A 'Lost Recipe' Found (2024)

Pickling spices, ready for their close-up Marissa McClellan/Food In Jars hide caption

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Marissa McClellan/Food In Jars

Three Secrets To Crispy Pickles, And A 'Lost Recipe' Found (2)

Pickling spices, ready for their close-up

Marissa McClellan/Food In Jars

Whether you're a veteran canner or you've just discovered this hot trend and want to get in on National Can It Forward Day this weekend, you know that the ultimate test of a good pickle is whether it's got some crunch to it.

As part of All Things Considered's Lost Recipes series, host Melissa Block talks with listener Joanie Vick, of Nashua, N.H., today. (You can hear the full interview above.)

Vick wants to re-create her Grandma Minnie's secret family recipe for Original New York Full Sour Pickles. Vick writes:

"I think I have all the ingredients, she omitted the amount of salt and what quantities of each (Grandma made it by the barrel). I know you use small pickling cucumbers, garlic cloves, and that you can use commercial pickling spices IF YOU PICK OUT ALL THE CINNAMON."

Enter expert pickler Marisa McClellan of the blog and now book Food in Jars. Her advice to Vick? Ditch the prefab pickling spice and make your own. And try a 5 percent salt solution per pound of cucumbers (full recipe below).

In addition to reverse-engineering Grandma Minnie's recipe, McClellan offers these tips for getting crisp pickles:

1. Trim the ends off the cucumbers before you pack them into jars. "Depending on how well you've washed your cucumbers, there can also be an enzyme in the blossom end of a cucumber that can lead to softening, and nobody wants a soft pickle," she says.

2. Try certain leaves. "It could be that your grandmother may have put some cherry leaves or grape leaves in the barrels with her cucumbers, which is a natural way to encourage cripsness because those leaves have tannins in them," McClellan says. (Tannins are naturally occurring plant polyphenols that can affect the nutrition and astringent taste of food and wine.)

3. Add alum "to encourage that nice texture," she says. Alum can be found in the spice section of the grocery store.

Listener Joan Vick wanted to re-create her Grandma Minnie's secret pickle recipe. Courtesy Joan Vick hide caption

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Courtesy Joan Vick

Listener Joan Vick wanted to re-create her Grandma Minnie's secret pickle recipe.

Courtesy Joan Vick

Here's McClellan's version of Grandma Minnie's recipe:

Kosher Dill Pickles

1 quart water

4 tablespoons kosher salt

1 pound Kirby cucumbers

4-5 peeled garlic cloves

2-3 tablespoons homemade pickling spice

Homemade Pickling Spice

2 tablespoons black peppercorns

2 tablespoons mustard seeds

2 tablespoons coriander seeds

2 tablespoons dill seed

2 tablespoons allspice berries

1 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes

10-12 bay leaves, crumbled

In a medium pan, combine water and salt. Bring to a boil and heat until the salt is fully dissolved. Set aside and let the brine fully cool before using.

Wash a wide-mouth quart jar and a small four-ounce jelly jar and let them dry.

Wash Kirby cucumbers well and trim the ends. Pack them into the clean quart jar with the garlic cloves and the pickling spice. Pour the cooled brine over the cucumbers. Tap the jar gently on your counter to settle the cucumbers and to remove any air bubbles.

Place the four-ounce jelly jar into the mouth of the quart jar and fill it with some of the remaining brine. Press it down so that it holds the cucumbers in place.

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Put a small square of cheesecloth or a tea towel over the jar and secure it with a rubber band. Set the jar on a small plate or saucer and tuck it into a corner of your kitchen that's cool and out of direct sunlight.

Check the jar every day to ensure that the cucumbers remain submerged in the brine. After a week, slice off a small amount of cucumber and taste. If you like the level of sourness that the pickle has reached, remove the jelly jar from the mouth of the quart, place a lid on the jar and move it to the fridge.

If you think they need to continue to sour, let them sit out for a few more days. Pickles can continue their fermentation process for up to three weeks.

They will last up to a year in the fridge.

For more on pickling safely, check out our interview last year with test kitchen scientist Lauren Devine-Hager.

If you need help solving your own Lost Recipe, submit it here to NPR's All Things Considered. Put "Lost Recipe" in the subject line.

Three Secrets To Crispy Pickles, And A 'Lost Recipe' Found (2024)

FAQs

What is the secret to crisp pickles? ›

Soak Cucumbers In Ice Water Beforehand

If you're not canning your cucumbers immediately, leave them in an ice bath or in your refrigerator overnight to maintain firmness. Doing this before you start canning them will give you the crunchiest pickles you've ever had!

What is the crisping agent for pickles? ›

In addition to crisping up pickles, calcium chloride can also give a bit of a salty taste, while not adding any sodium to your food. Home brewers who mistakenly add too much calcium chloride to their brewing mash complain that it tastes like sea water.

Does cream of tartar keep pickles crisp? ›

One of the most significant advantages of using cream of tartar in pickling is its ability to maintain the crispness of the fruits or vegetables being pickled. This is especially crucial for pickles like cucumber and green beans, where texture is an essential aspect of their appeal.

Why are my pickles not crunchy? ›

If the pickles are soft, they are spoiled from the yeast fermentation. Don't use them. Using too weak a salt brine or vinegar solution may cause soft or slippery pickles, as can using moldy garlic or storing the pickles at too warm a temperature.

What is the additive for crisp pickles? ›

Use Calcium Chloride

Calcium chloride (CaCl2), sometimes known as “pickle crisp”, is a type of salt that helps preserve the crunchiness of food. It is used in the food industry to help preserve the texture of canned fruit and vegetables.

What powder keeps pickles crisp? ›

Ball Pickle Crisp Granules are easy to use for crispier homemade pickles. Just measure and add to the jar, replacing pickling lime and the need for time-consuming pre-soak.

What gives flavor to pickles and makes the product crisp? ›

Alum, short for aluminum sulfate, is used in pickling to promote crisp texture and is approved, though not recommended, as a food additive by the United States Food and Drug Administration.

Why do you soak cucumbers in ice water before pickling? ›

Tasting the stem end can give you a sense of whether the pickle will be bitter since that's the end where bitterness concentrates. Soaking your cucumbers in ice water 30-60 minutes before fermenting seems to help keep crispness.

How do you crisp soggy fried pickles? ›

Air fry the pickles for three to four minutes, but always be attentive as the size and thickness of your pickles and varying air fryer models can alter the ideal reheating time. After this period, gently shake the basket or use a pair of tongs to flip the pickles and continue frying for a similar duration.

What chemical makes pickles crunchy? ›

Calcium chloride is mainly used in canning to make crunchy pickles. It can also be used in lacto-fermentation! Fermentation tends to soften vegetables, so using calcium chloride helps keep the vegetables crunchy.

Does salt make pickles crunchy? ›

Salt hardens the pectins in vegetables and this is what makes them crisp. Without enough salt, your vegetables, and especially pickles, will be soft and mushy. Pickles need more salt than my other cultured vegetables to keep them crisper.

What leaves keep pickles crunchy? ›

Using tea leaves isn't the only way to get a crunchy pickle. You can use a fresh grape leaf, oak leaves or horseradish leaves too.

Is Pickle Crisp really necessary? ›

If you let them go and go and go for 20 minutes, then you're cooking the pickles,” Bronee tells me. “A lot of people use things like 'Pickle Crisp' and other additives but it's not necessary. If you start with the right cucumber then it's hard to go wrong.”

Do bay leaves keep pickles crunchy? ›

They act as natural preservatives, helping to maintain the firmness and texture of fruits and vegetables during the pickling process. When added to pickling brine, bay leaves infuse the cucumbers with these tannins, ensuring they remain delightfully crunchy even after months of storage.

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